Holy Hanoi!

Vietnam, a country that fills the pages of our history books with controversy and images of death that were the first to be viewed so regularly without censorship on the nightly news. This was how my generation was exposed to this period of our history. We were taught that Vietnam was a war with many different stories and sides and no real victor in the end. Other than my history education and the fact the the country is still communist today I really had no way to gauge where I was traveling. I’d heard many people exclaim how much they had loved their visits. But I had read many blog postings of travelers who fell victim to scams and whose trips were ruined by these experiences. Originally I chose this country because of it’s mystique. The pictures of scenery and culture where so stunning and yet antique as if the culture was trapped in time. And therefore I added it to the itinerary with hopes to experience the same charm and vibrance that radiated from the photographs.

For the first time arriving at the airport I wasn’t full of travel anxiety which I had continually experienced upon every other arrival, maybe I was becoming an old pro. As we started our drive into the city the chaos of traffic settled into a familiar rhythm I have grown accustomed to in this part of the world. The life of the city blurred into my view. My guide gave me some specific advice based on the area and pointed out various landmarks on our drive to the Old Quarter. As we passed a auto accident on the road she informed me that there were about 30 deaths daily due to the traffic and drivers inability to follow road rules. The chaos of the road didn’t fully sink in until a loud thud reverberated throughout the car. Looking around to see what we had just hit I realized the passengers side mirror had collided with a pedestrian crossing the street. The driver barely glanced in his rear view mirror to make sure the pedestrian was ok, and we continued on without pause. Looking behind me with fear and shock I realized that the pedestrian wasn’t too concerned either and continued across the street. I then realized I was again in a world so unknown to what I have possibly missed the most about the United States, order. As I sat in my hotel room I knew I could stay in this air conditioned safe haven or I could enter the chaos and explore this world. Going for the ladder I entered into the streets of Hanoi cautiously looking in all directions knowing my pedestrian status meant very little.

In the maze that is the Old Quarter of Hanoi I blindly wandered the streets on a food mission. Realizing on the plane that not only was there not a vegetarian option but that the salad that accompanied the meal was covered in meat, I knew that my Vietnam food adventure may include some unintentional animal products. But as I wandered through the streets this woman came up to me. Those look like doughnut holes, you can’t go wrong there, I purchased the three different types and immediately begin to sample them all. The darker of the three was the most sweet, with a sugary center. The other two were surprising, a subtle balance between savory and sweet. It may have been hunger or relief that there wasn’t pork filling, but I was content with my first purchase.

My next food stop introduced me to the newest love of my life… Vietnamese coffee, heaven on your taste buds. Vietnam is one of the largest coffee distributors. The Vietnamese tradition is to mix the coffee with sweetened condensed milk. I ordered an ice coffee with just a small amount of milk and I was in caffeine heaven. Every sip was strong and powerful, full of bold flavors I was so happy to be in the presence of real coffee once again.

When it was time for dinner I was on a street food mission looking for something authentic. Finding a kitchen with communal tables I sat in confusion not knowing whether someone would be taking my order or just bringing me food. I found someone who spoke a little English enough to understand that I wanted the noodle veggie concoction without meat. I was brought this, Bun Cha, usually it is sliced pork served with thin rice vermicelli noodles, a heap of fresh herbs and green vegetables, in a bowl of lightly sweetened nuoc mam (fish sauce) with floating slices of pickled vegetables. My order arrived without the meat and I dug into this new find, my culinary delight cost me a grand total of two dollars.

With some food success under my belt or in my belly I felt a little braver to explore the streets further. Wanting a sweet to end my night I found a smoothie shop. I ordered a papaya fruit shake and sat on these little benches that line the streets usually indicating a restaurant space. There I rested and savored all of my day. Thinking about how far I had come from my first introduction in Delhi. It’s amazing how quickly you adapt to your surroundings, I feel like a seasoned travel pro and yet my travel time is quickly coming to an end.

During one of my days in Hanoi I ventured outside the city for a day trip to the Perfume Pagoda, an amazing complex of pagodas and Buddhist shrines built into the karst cliffs of Huong Tich Mountain. Not only was the temple in the mountains and truly spectacular, but the ride to get there consisted of a hour boat trip paddled by these woman who seemed to poses supper power and strength. Then a hike to a gondola which flew you over the valleys and mountain scape to the top. The views and colors of this country are breathtaking, bright green rice fields, lime stone rock features and brown thick rivers flood every inch of view. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

On my last day I decided to devote an entire day walking around the Old Quarter of Hanoi, a intricate stream of alleyways and roadways weaving around and around. I tried to follow the Lonely Planet’s walking guide, but realized within minutes that like everything else in the Old Quarter chaos seemed to control the roads and I couldn’t distinguish one way from the other. So my walking tour turned into a eating tour, attempting to sample my way through the day I tried various street foods. The highlight was the bia hoi, Vietnamese draught beer or microwbrew. Brewed without preservatives this light bodied pilsner is meant to be consumed immediately and costs about twenty cents a glass. The beer was refreshing and there was some flavor to it so I didn’t feel as if I was drinking some light American beer. Bia Hoi shops occupy many street corners in Hanoi, again with the little plastic stools and you see then men enjoying the beer together at the end of the day. 
My day ended with another trip to my new found favorite restaurant. Knowing I can get good street food with no meat, I’ve returned to this place nightly. There is just something about the warm noodles and broth mixed with the veggies and herbs, it feels so fresh but filing at the same time.

And with that I said goodbye to the chaos of Hanoi and realized that while the streets are insanely, overly crowded, and the cars and bikes are all consuming, there is something about the energy of this city that makes you smile. Maybe it’s the fact that in the hectic mess of life they have a system that works so well.

Chiang Mia or Bust!

Chiang Mia or bust! Step number one, try to figure out the bus system in Thailand. While I had heard good things about this form of transportation, I wasn’t sure what my five and a half hour journey would entail. The bus was decked out in these fabulous colors and while I was as comfortable as one can be seated for that duration of time I was slightly concerned about the people who stood in the aisle next to me for most of the journey. All standing did not seem to argue with this form of transport, but all I could think about was how I hate standing on the buses of Chicago and that is only for a thirty minute ride at the most.

After arriving I meet up with these two, Kelsey and Wes. Kelsey is my godparent’s daughter, I’ve known her since our days in diapers and it was fun to reminisce and tell Wes stories of our childhood. She and Wes are teaching English at a school in Chiang Mia and therefore I was able to get the insiders guide of the city. Our first night was spent consuming amazing food and ok beer. To gauge the beer quality lets just say I’m missing PBR. The Thai beer taste reminds me of my college drinking days and Keystone.
The next day I ventured out into the city on a mission, first Kelsey and Wes told me I needed the Nancy Chandler map of Chiang Mia and second I needed a pedicure and manicure stat. I spent the entire day wandering around the streets of the Old City of Chiang Mia, a walled in city full of guesthouses, backpacker hangouts, cafes, shops and message parlors. My guesthouse was in this area just steps from Kelsey and Wes’s school so I got to know my surroundings well. My first meal was a Thai Iced Tea, while the sweetness sent my tastebuds into a tailspin I could see how people enjoyed the tea flavor, but I was concerned that the drink would give me diabetes and therefore I’ve steered clear ever since. After that I needed a break from Thai food and came across Dada Kafe, this would become my breakfast hangout for the rest of my stay, but to start I had this sandwich. A vegetarian delight, so fresh and a welcome break from the heat and spice of Thailand. Next up was mango sticky rice, again I thought I would fall into a sugar coma based on the flavor.

The rest of my time spent in Chiang Mia was centered around leisurely exploring the city. My favorite activity was to simply sit in a cafe and people watch, enjoy the cool temperatures that the northern region had to offer. I did venture out on a self guided Wat tour based on Lonely Plants direction. A Wat is a Buddhist monastery or temple, bathed in gold and images of the Buddha. This tour led me to the second best meal I enjoyed in Chiang Mia, Blue Diamond had an amazing Pad See Ew and of course papaya salad. The salad was so spicy my lips burned for minutes after, which was a glorious reminder of the amazing flavors I had just enjoyed.

My favorite meal was one Wes made for Kelsey and I. It was centered around a spicy pumpkin dish and when I say spicy I mean after burn for minutes spicy. Wes has a flare for spice and knowing I was up for the challenge he put me to the test of 6 or 7 Thai chilies. I made him give me the recipe which I will share with you when I return, but I will remember that dinner fondly.

Although Chiang Mia may be the second biggest city in Thailand it is very manageable and was a nice transition out of jungle. My time flew by even though I made a point to not be in a rush to see it all, I just wanted to rest and relax which is exactly what I did. One night after my walking tour I took advantage of a hour long foot and reflexology message for a grand total of $5. On the way back to my guest house I came upon a little hangout called Peppermint Cafe where I ordered these two treats. Then needing something sweet I ended the night with my second try at mongo sticky rice, this time I enjoyed the perfect combination of natural sweetness from the mango with the light drizzle of the sugary milk. The perfect end to a wonderful day.
The one major tourist attraction I suggest to everyone is Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep. A Wat overlooking the entire city of Chiang Mia. While my visit was hindered by continuous cloud coverage, the Wat was still worth the curvy, winding drive up the mountain.

Oh My Buddha Belly

Pad Thai, Spring Rolls, Mango Sticky Rice, Thai Iced Tea, the list goes on and on. From Sukhothai to Chiang Mia I have managed to feast for few dollars on some fine Thai delicacies. Yes at the Sukhothai Historical Park I saw these ruins, yes they were incredible and yes for some strange reason I’ve become obsessed with the hands. There is something so beautiful about them, right?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

But look at what I ate. First stop on my Thai culinary tour was to the 7-eleven. I know!!! So very American of me, but to balance out my small purchase of a snickers and almond M&Ms

I bought some Thai snacks as well. First can I just note, look at the serving size of these American sweet treats, about two-thirds the size of our treats in the US, yes I know this is a sore subject for New York and the Big Gulp but I find the difference very interesting.

Ok so back to the treats, I got these. Tamarind is a fruit with many seeds, it is used in cooking as a dry powder or in a paste form. At BLES they use Tamarind to hide medicine given to the elephants because of the sweet flavor. Well this one said “Sweet and Sour” I was hoping for something like sour patch kids but got chili fire meets sugar instead. Even though the taste was so different of spice and sweet in a weird way enjoyed them and ate the entire bag.

Next on my culinary adventure I hit up my first roadside food stand. The vendors peddle a bike with this entire kitchen operation attached to the back to a spot and set up for the night. My first Veggie Pad Thai was greatly enjoyed. Although in the US we may use more of a peanut sauce or heavy sauce, these noodles where light and seasoned well. On my way back to the hotel I came across this waffle concoction, I had walked by it three times and realized I couldn’t resist. This is a waffle with fresh coconut in it. Every bite was as wonderful as you can imagine, fresh, warm, and lightly sweet, my belly was in food heaven, and my wallet was singing a happy tune as well, my noodles and waffle cost a grand total of $2.22. The next day I ate at this place. I don’t know if calling your restaurant Poo is really the best idea, but it was recommended in my guide book so I decided to give it a try. While my meal was good, my street food from the night before was so much better, this actually has been a common occurrence throughout my Thailand experience and the street food is about half the price. But I was able to order papaya salad which like I said before will be a staple in my diet when I return to the US. So that is just the first two days of my food travels. I have managed to eat my way through Chiang Mia as well but I’ll post that a little later. I’ll let you all salivate on these delicacies for the time being. I did end up taking a cooking class is Chiang Mia so when I return it is Pad Thai for all. Of course I’ll be charging more than $2.22 per plate.