Expectations can ruin everything. I should have known as I had been told this time and again, and the outcome always seems to be the same, disappointment. But I was naive, and so I told people “I have a feeling I’m going to love Cambodia and actually want to spend my final two weeks there rather than Vietnam like I planned.” With that train of thought I arrived to the country on a cloud of optimism which was greeted by a tuk tuk driver with my name on his sign. There really isn’t anything better than arriving to a foreign airport stressed with fear of the unknown and then to be greeted by a smiling face and your name in writing. The owner of the Victory Guesthouse greeted me at the door and welcomed me to their home. After dropping my bags in my room I was handed a pineapple shake and I settled into a chair to shake off the heavy day of travel I had just experienced.
The next morning I decided to explore Siem Reap, after walking down the road no more then one minute I heard “Lady, Lady want a tuk tuk, Lady Lady want a message.” This continued for the rest of my day. Trying to be as polite as possible I said no and continued my exploration. Siem Reap is a confusing contradiction of shops, hotels and restaurants. You’ll be walking by a run down shop or see a home that resembles a hut but it is flanked on both sides by a glamorous hotel and a mall type building advertising Gucci. Shops after shops are over flowing with junk, handbags, toys, scarves and other touristy items that make your suitcase cringe. It got to the point where I tried not to make eye contact with anyone for fear I’d have to say no yet again to whatever they were hawking on the street.
Day two, my airport tuk tuk driver took me around the ruins of Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom.
While trying to immerse myself in the grander of these ancient temples I was swarmed by children pushing bracelets and postcards into my hands. When a simple no wouldn’t deter them they would start to haggle with themselves, “one dollar for ten, ok I give you deal, 50 cents for 10.” This has been my first heavy interaction with begging on this trip, while I’ve heard horror stories of begging in India and Thailand, most of my travel was during the peak of the heat season therefore I rarely encountered it. So now these innocent, dirt covered faces are looking at me and I have to glaze over my eyes and my emotions and say no. Now I am not heartless and a penny pincher, but I am following the guidelines based on the travel books suggestion that the country is trying to limit begging and therefore it is best not to aid these children.
Therefore by day three with my patience frayed all I wanted to do was lash out and scream. Adding to the pressure was the descriptive reading material that was weighing on my subconscious. I have been reading First They Killed My Father, by Loung Ung. The story of a five year old and her life during the genocide and massacre of her country by the Khmer Rouge. I like many of my fellow travel companions I’ve met in Cambodia knew very little about the Khmer Rouge, Cambodia and the struggle they have lived with for the last forty years. As I read deeper and deeper into the story of starvation, mass murder and evil that very few may ever begin to imagine, I realized that I was living in the shambles of this history. But without more research I didn’t realize that Cambodia had yet to fully recover from their massacre, and therefore I presented a front of tough love thinking that this was what they needed to become strong (yes my misguided, naive assumption is almost too embarrassing to write.)
And so on the third day: “In my next life I want to be born in your country” he said pointing to me with a giant smile on his face. Not clearly understanding what he was trying to say, I replied “oh you want to come visit the United States, what part of the country do you want to come visit?” “Oh no I will never be able to visit your country in this life, but in my next I hope to be born in your country.” While his statement should have made me proud and patriotic, it had the opposite effect and became the final straw that broke my patience completely. He explained how wonderful my country was in comparison to his, he gave two specific examples; one that from 6 to 26 people in the US have the ability to go to school and university. Two that in our country people retire between the ages of 50 and 60 where as he explained, people in Cambodia work until death. With a forceful tone that was fueled by disappointment and anger I
clearly explained that what he was describing was not the majority of our country. Yes, while some have the ability to go to school and some have the ability to retire around 50, the majority of the country goes into great debt for their education and most people work until their 70’s. While my response may have been a slight exaggeration, it fell on deaf ears because to him my country represents so much more then he will ever have. I should of known when he started the tour raving about Angelina Jolie and how wonderful she was to the Cambodian country that there was no reasoning with him. The temple they used in the film Tomb Raider has been nicknamed the Tomb Raider Temple or more fondly recognized as the Angelina Jolie Temple. While her charity work and monetary donations have been great aid to this country, I wanted to reiterate that Angelina doesn’t have the same discretionary income as the rest of the country. I couldn’t help but feel that they saw us all as Angelina Jolie’s or as if I were simply a walking dollar sign. While they take much pride in their temples it feels like they would sell them to the highest bidder. In that train of thought I feel as if I am surrounded by a country obsessed with tourists trying to take them for all they are worth.
But then I continued my reading, page after page described Loung’s struggle with life, watching her family be separated, her sister’s death and then watching her father be taken by two guards never to be seen again. Yet at five years old while she struggled with fear and starvation, she stayed strong through anger and hate of what these men were doing to her family. I began to do more research realizing that even though the Khmer Rouge lost full control four years after they invaded Phonm Penh (April 17,1975, the day they marched into the city) their power has never fully disappeared. I only truly realized this when I read that several of the current Cambodian leaders were previously members of the Khmer Rouge, including Prime Minister Hun Sen and Head of the Senate Chea Sim, although there is no evidence to implicate them in the mass killings it is well known that they were apart of the group that massacred 3 million people. With that knowledge I realized my reaction of tough love and glacier eyes was not what these people needed. They are barely surviving with a government that has employed the people who have ruined their lives with murder and fear, they now are only trying to simply survive.![20120821-102016.jpg](https://puresimplebliss.wordpress.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/20120821-102016.jpg?w=300&h=229)
My week in Cambodia went from glacier cold to warm and gooey, trying to exude kindness to everyone I meet. But deep down I am a mess of emotions. I have an overwhelming sadness for this country. I have a greater sense of guilt that while my country wasn’t the only perpetrator in supporting the Khmer Rouge we did help their rise, and worse we did not slow their fall and even though many of the political players at that time from the US have since passed away I am having a hard time trying to understand humanity mixed with political power. But I now see the beauty and strength that I am surrounded by. The Cambodian people are hustling through life to provide for their families. So while I find it an inconvenience to say no time and again, I now know that they don’t see me as a dollar sign, rather a economic surge to help feed their family.![20120821-102115.jpg](https://puresimplebliss.wordpress.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/20120821-102115.jpg?w=211&h=300)
I did have the pleasure of meeting my tour guide for a second tour two days later. His response was, “Oh it’s you again.” I smiled and realized I deserved every innuendo of that statement. As we biked through the ruins watching the sunrise I became more comfortable to ask about his background and history. I had done the math and knew he had to have been two or three in 1975. He told me that he lost his father and two brothers to the Khmer Rouge. He then told me a memory of the food rationing, how daily he and his mother would be given one tablespoon of rice. His mother would take their rice mix it with water and boil it with banana root to prevent them from starving. He explained that she was so sad they had to eat banana root because it was as if they were animals, but they needed to do whatever they could to survive. While his story resonated the reality of the past he also told me that because of the government control few children are taught about their history. Therefore the newer generations say they don’t believe that this genocide occurred because there is very little visual proof. The thought that this history may be forgotten just like the graves of so many that we’re murdered makes me the most sad.
If you want to make donations to Cambodia make sure to make them to either the Red Cross or any NGO (Non-Government Organization). It is unknown how much corruption is occurring in the government today so the biggest
assistance you can have is to these organizations who will make sure that the Cambodian people see your aid.